Ok. I had a landmark week for myself. I had a lifetime personal best with 37 pullups and I did one free standing handstand pushup.
So, after climbing with 8bitnintendo
I've been contemplating training effects and such.
Here's my issue:
I'm strong. More strong than necessary for my level of climbing.
I can trad lead some 5.9s - confidence needs work.
I can toprope or follow 5.10a - b confidently and flail through 5.10c - 5.11a.
So how do I get better?
Confidence at high grades is the major factor and repertoire of moves. Balance is another factor.
So I've decided upon a simple solution.
I do not need to work strength. I need to repeat routes.
Go out and do three to four routes I know I can do to warm up and ingrain confidence.
Then choose one route I haven't done before that I think I can do. Do these.
Then pick a non-dangerous hard route and work that until exhaustion.
This will work my strength and technique.
Outdoors is hard to do structured training as nothing is structured. But it is a great place to work focus, route finding, and variations.
Do two to three easy routes to warm up.
Then work every 5.10 I can find.
On the next trip to the gym I will continue to do the 5.10s. I will do the 5.10s until I feel smooth on them.
After that I will do the 5.11s. If the routes change during this time I will do the new 5.10s and then start on the 5.11s for that session.
In this way I hope to increase my move / technique exposure and also my confidence.
This is all based upon my tight schedule and desire to have fun too.
Some suggestions for the less strong.
Warm up and find something hard and work it. I wouldn't focus on targeted strength exercises so much because:
1) it's not as fun as just climbing,
2) you can over work muscles and, particularly, tendons. Tendons get rather stressed in climbing and if you muscles get stronger than your tendons you tend to rip things - some of you have to worry about this, others don't.
3) you build strength in proportion to the techniques you are also learning.
Technique practice is primary for beginners. Climbing and working technique will quickly build strength. Therefore my suggestion to find something hard and work it. Figure out why you're failing and work that. Work the mentality of actually doing things versus "trying" to do things. With a closed fist, think of trying to uncurl your fingers. Now uncurl them. One of those thoughts opens your fist. The other one is a baffling moment of trying to understand what happens mentally when you ask your body to do something. Just stand the fuck up.
So again, beginners, warmup and then find some hard crap and work it. It should be possible but may take multiple falls to complete.
Once you are past all of the easy stuff follow a routine similar to mine.